It's finally time to work on the brakes. Since I had an epiphany and change of wheel plans on my recent vacation, I had to order some rear disc brake parts, namely the master cylinder and another caliper rebuild kit. I opted to buy both OEM NOS parts through EconomyCycle.com (as I did with the front brake system)- nothing fits quite like the real thing. Sure, it was twice the price of reproduction parts, but I would rather have piece of mind knowing that the stuff is going to work like it should.
When I think back on the days when I was a wee young lad and I just first got the bike, I didn't know a goddamned thing about working on motorcycles. Cars for that matter either. I think the most I ever did with that bike was change the oil. I did have to get the rectifier and the clutch cable replaced, but other than that, I did very little maintenance. Repairs were made over the next few years- the generator had to be rebuilt, new tires and the carbs rejetted, since I installed air filter pods and ditched the air box.
In the end, it was my lack of maintenance that led to the bike trying to kill me. The rear shock shafts were bent, the front forks were bent back an inch or two, due to me crashing into the back of a car, due to my brakes not really doing much to stop me. I never even checked the brakes for fluid. So I guess that I really deserved that. So when I decided to rebuild the brake system, I'm going to do it right and give them a little more performance.
Some 10 years ago, I bought a second used front master with the intentions of marrying the two to rebuild my original one. I started to disassemble them on a dinner plate, and there they sat for the next 10 years. Lol.
Taking apart the master cylinders wasn't much of a problem, but I did have to buy some new c-clip needle nose pliers to get the piston out. Funny thing though- as I was working on the disassembly process, I realized that the two master cylinders were different! The one that came with my bike was marked Nissin 14 on the underside, while the used one I bought said Asco 12. After doing some research, I discovered that my bike should have come with the Asco 12 m/c. Interesting... Some time ago, I also bought a NOS front master cylinder cap and that too fit the spare m/c. So I will surmise that a owner previous to me swapped it out. I am trying to build the bike to be closer to OEM, so I'm going to use the Asco m/c, plus the rebuild kit I bought probably won't fin the 14 anyway. The kit went in without a hitch. There was a slight bit of corrosion inside the cylinder, but it was so minor that I don't think it's going to make any difference. The rear m/c was rebuilt with equal ease. There was a little more cleaning and polishing to do, since there was the copper connector that had to be shined up. I just so happened to have a brand new NOS pressure switch, so I just swapped it out with the gross old one. (I have no idea why I have these random NOS parts just sitting around in my bins.) I masked off all the holes and gave them a nice new coat of paint. They look spectacular!
The calipers were a different story. Now remember, these brakes have not moved in over 20 years. I knew that getting the pistons out was going to be a bitch. I looked for the solution online for days! I worked on the front caliper first. I did find a helpful tutorial from HVCcycle.com. I used it loosely as a road map to work with. I also found some other hints online for using a grease gun, if compressed air doesn't work. (The grease gun threads will fit the front caliper.) One piston came out with air. The other piston came out with the grease gun.
The rear brake caliper was more of a problem. The grease gun fitting will not fit properly in the caliper, but it will fit just good enough if you're careful. For the bleeder side, the grease gun would not thread into that side, so I tried my darnedest with compressed air. After that, I tried to get the grease gun to squeeze through the bleed nipple. No bueno. But it did give me an idea. I eventually figured out that zerk grease fittings have the same thread pitch as the bleed nipple if you get the metric ones. (And no, I could not find anything online that would suggest this as a solution to pushing out the caliper piston. Go figure! I can't be the only one who's ever had this problem.) It worked like a charm! Both calipers got painted and look fantastic!
I cleaned up the rear brake mount and bar, then painted them. I'm very close to finishing up both brake systems. Both front and rear are receiving Galfer stainless steel brake lines. I'm still waiting for the rear ones to arrive, since it was back ordered. I bought a bottle of Motul RBF 600 and waiting eagerly to get everything filled up! One more thing- the front brake caliper will need a new banjo bolt to accommodate the new brake line, since the original system was a hard line.
When I think back on the days when I was a wee young lad and I just first got the bike, I didn't know a goddamned thing about working on motorcycles. Cars for that matter either. I think the most I ever did with that bike was change the oil. I did have to get the rectifier and the clutch cable replaced, but other than that, I did very little maintenance. Repairs were made over the next few years- the generator had to be rebuilt, new tires and the carbs rejetted, since I installed air filter pods and ditched the air box.
In the end, it was my lack of maintenance that led to the bike trying to kill me. The rear shock shafts were bent, the front forks were bent back an inch or two, due to me crashing into the back of a car, due to my brakes not really doing much to stop me. I never even checked the brakes for fluid. So I guess that I really deserved that. So when I decided to rebuild the brake system, I'm going to do it right and give them a little more performance.
Some 10 years ago, I bought a second used front master with the intentions of marrying the two to rebuild my original one. I started to disassemble them on a dinner plate, and there they sat for the next 10 years. Lol.
Taking apart the master cylinders wasn't much of a problem, but I did have to buy some new c-clip needle nose pliers to get the piston out. Funny thing though- as I was working on the disassembly process, I realized that the two master cylinders were different! The one that came with my bike was marked Nissin 14 on the underside, while the used one I bought said Asco 12. After doing some research, I discovered that my bike should have come with the Asco 12 m/c. Interesting... Some time ago, I also bought a NOS front master cylinder cap and that too fit the spare m/c. So I will surmise that a owner previous to me swapped it out. I am trying to build the bike to be closer to OEM, so I'm going to use the Asco m/c, plus the rebuild kit I bought probably won't fin the 14 anyway. The kit went in without a hitch. There was a slight bit of corrosion inside the cylinder, but it was so minor that I don't think it's going to make any difference. The rear m/c was rebuilt with equal ease. There was a little more cleaning and polishing to do, since there was the copper connector that had to be shined up. I just so happened to have a brand new NOS pressure switch, so I just swapped it out with the gross old one. (I have no idea why I have these random NOS parts just sitting around in my bins.) I masked off all the holes and gave them a nice new coat of paint. They look spectacular!
The calipers were a different story. Now remember, these brakes have not moved in over 20 years. I knew that getting the pistons out was going to be a bitch. I looked for the solution online for days! I worked on the front caliper first. I did find a helpful tutorial from HVCcycle.com. I used it loosely as a road map to work with. I also found some other hints online for using a grease gun, if compressed air doesn't work. (The grease gun threads will fit the front caliper.) One piston came out with air. The other piston came out with the grease gun.
The rear brake caliper was more of a problem. The grease gun fitting will not fit properly in the caliper, but it will fit just good enough if you're careful. For the bleeder side, the grease gun would not thread into that side, so I tried my darnedest with compressed air. After that, I tried to get the grease gun to squeeze through the bleed nipple. No bueno. But it did give me an idea. I eventually figured out that zerk grease fittings have the same thread pitch as the bleed nipple if you get the metric ones. (And no, I could not find anything online that would suggest this as a solution to pushing out the caliper piston. Go figure! I can't be the only one who's ever had this problem.) It worked like a charm! Both calipers got painted and look fantastic!
I cleaned up the rear brake mount and bar, then painted them. I'm very close to finishing up both brake systems. Both front and rear are receiving Galfer stainless steel brake lines. I'm still waiting for the rear ones to arrive, since it was back ordered. I bought a bottle of Motul RBF 600 and waiting eagerly to get everything filled up! One more thing- the front brake caliper will need a new banjo bolt to accommodate the new brake line, since the original system was a hard line.
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